2B.understanding Quality Procedures in Cutting & Fusing

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.understanding Quality Procedures in Cutting & Fusing
  Procedures practiced for Quality Control & Assurance (Cutting) Procedures practiced for Quality control &Assurance (Cutting & Fusing)  Inputs –Details related to Fabric such as face side /Shade bands etc.. 1. Shade swatches along with the face side swatch approved by the buyershould be received from the Go down and Merchandising dept respectively.2.Shade segregation should be complying with the approved swatches.3. Verify whether the shade segregation is matching to the standard.4.Approval from Ho/Buying office mandatory if the received lots of fabric arenot matching to standards.5.The approval must have a checklist form for all the tests & approvalstandards w. r. t colour, wash, embroidery, printing, hand feel6. Shade band details (Shade A, B, C, D) after verification should be receivedfrom fabric inspector & spreading team also should be given a copy forreference.7. Shade grouping also must be received from the fabric godown.8. Fabric details such as to face/back, nap direction; hand feel should bereceived from the godown duly approved by the merchant.9. Shade wise/widthwise segregated rolls only should be received,checked & then should proceed for laying.10.Both ends of every roll should have sticker consisting details of shadeno, roll no, width and other relevant detail to enable easy identification of rolls. Cutting Forecast shade wise 1.Cuttable quantities from each lot and shade should be informed tomarketing, QA, & Buyer QA in advance for approval.2.Cutting of rolls/bales should be done shade wise as per the breakdown of the PONote: Rolls should be allotted in such a way that no of shades included in a singlelay or shipment or size range is minimized. Page 1 of 11  Procedures practiced for Quality Control & Assurance (Cutting) Spreading of fabric for Relaxation 1.Unroll the fabric from rolls & lay on table/flat area in concentricfolds.2.Allow for free relaxation without any obstruction —the periodshould be studied and pre determined by the Go down and thefactory Fabric Inspector3.Record the time of unrolling and ready time laying of each roll4.Relaxation of the lay should be pre determined and will be around3-6hrs (for stretch fabrics –if necessary especially for knittedfabrics. Fusing-Study of Fusing Shrinkage 1.Cut fabric swatches with square template of size 18” X18”(or 12”x12”)2.Fuse the fabric & specified interlining at specified temperature,pressure & time.3.Allow for cooling of the fused parts.4.Check for fusing shrinkage and record same ---this should beincorporated into the patterns “ as allowance for fusing”. 5. Check for shade variation if any due to fusing. If you observeany shade variation, report to the Cutting In Charge andinitiate corrective action .6.Check the fusing for defects like – peel off, bubbles etc. Informdeviations/defects if any to the concerned for necessary correctiveaction.7.QA team has to educate/specify area of fusing, and temperature andpressure to be set for fusing- 8.Fusing tests must be carried out twice a day, once at thestart of the machine then in the afternoon. Page 2 of 11  Procedures practiced for Quality Control & Assurance (Cutting) Fusing Machine-- Tests & Daily Maintenance: 1.Fusing validation trial tests must be carried out regularly, whenthe new style begins fusing parameters has to be finalised(temperature, time & pressure).2.Check the fusing machine pressure rollers nip, affecting thefusing quality, by passing a fabric strip through the machine &by pulling it backward --the need for re alignment of the rollerspressure can be identified when this is done at three points i.eleft/center/right of the belt.3.By passing a carbon paper placed on top a white paper throughthe machine the impression on the white paper can be observed.This would also will help us to determine any inconsistence of the roller pressure at left>center> Right4.Cleaning of the belt thoroughly and check for the requiredtemperature and pressure when the fabric/colour changes.Washing Shrinkage   1.Percentage of washing shrinkage lengthwise and widthwise shouldbe received from fabric section and recorded—the suppliers shouldensure that the shrinkages are as specified by the buyers(international standard limits are 3% lengthwise and 3% -widthwise)2.Identify the face & reverse side as per the swatch. Mark the roll no,PO, Style, QC, Taka No etc3.If the washing shrinkage % is more that 1.5% then the shrinkagetest to be conducted for all the rolls/bales received (100% of rolls)4.If there is a big variation in shrinkage, multiple markers to beprepared.For Example: For absolute shrinkage % range of 3.0 – 4.5 %marker/pattern#1 & for shrinkage of 4.5% - 6% -Marker/Pattern # 2 – like that. Page 3 of 11  Procedures practiced for Quality Control & Assurance (Cutting) 5.Color codification should be done to trace rolls of shrinkagegroups , if the range is too large or inconsistent. Cutting of Pilot Run Objective: carried out in order to make the necessary amendments inpatterns/laying procedure/cutting procedure /cutting allowance/ markerchanges/panel inspection/numbering area/bundling size. 1.Cutting incharge, production manager & IE shall plan for the pilot & bulkcutting.2.Pilot run cutting shall be done as per the colour/size/quantity advised byFM/PM/IE.- the selection of the rolls should cover all the shades andshrinkage groups 3.Make a report of observations, comments, suggestions, amendments,simplification, risk analysis, corrective action plan based on the aboveanalysis.4.Obtain feed back from the sewing & buying QA and then act upon thenecessary corrective action. Marker drawing & Preservation of patterns 1.Carbon Papers could be used for duplication of markers in case of non-CADmarkers.—In case of some orders it is not allowed---efforts be made toobtain computer markers from a close by plant..2.The pattern/marker being suggested by Sampling team is only a startingpoint for the cutting incharge to work on better fabric utilization. Cuttingincharge should try out different markers to maximize fabric 3.A Parts Checklist has to be maintained by the marker drawer toensure coverage of all parts in the lay.4.Pattern should be verified for required allowances, tolerances,notches and embellishment placement marks, grain line, napdirection indications before marking. Page 4 of 11
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