How To Build A Murphy Bed Free Plans

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http://wood.d0wnload.link/u5odct How To Build A Murphy Bed Free Plans tags: Small Drop Leaf Table With Two Chairs Crafts For Kids To Do At Home Things To Make And Sell At Craft Fairs Small Open Plan Office Layout How To Make A Full Size Platform Bed Wooden Jewelry Box For Necklaces Built In Banquette Seating Plans Southern Home Plans With Photos Sanding Wood Furniture To Paint Home Design Software Easy To Use Woodworking Tools For Log Furniture Murphy Wall Bed Hardware Kit DIY Wood Crafts To Sell Chicken And Rabbit Coop Plans Master Bathroom Plans With Walk In Shower Best Camping Table And Chairs Cost To Build Your Own Kitchen Cabinets Table Saw Outfeed Table Youtube Kitchen Table With Expandable Leaf Extra Long Extension Dining Table
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  • 1. Woodworking Shop Safety 10 Safety Tips to Post in Your Shop 1) Think Before You Cut – The most powerful tool in your shop is your brain, use it. Thinking your cuts and movements through before acting can help save both fingers and scrapwood. 2) Keep a Clean Shop – A cluttered shop is an accident waiting to happen. Keeping your shop clean will help protect you, and your tools, from tripping hazards. 3) Avoid Distractions – Pay attention to your actions. Looking up to watch the shop TV or visitor can result in your hand contacting the blade. Always wait until you have completed your cut before you take your eyes off the blade. 4) Don’t Rush – Keep in mind that this is just a hobby and take a break when you feel rushed or frustrated with a project. Mistakes happen when we rush to complete a job. 5) Don’t Force It – If your saw is resisting the cut, stop and see what’s wrong. A misaligned rip fence or improperly seated throat plate can sometimes cause a board to get stuck in mid cut. Forcing the board in these situations may cause kickback or contact with the blade. Take a moment to evaluate the situation and determine the problem. 6) Protect Yourself – Wearing the proper shop protection is an important part of safe tool operation. Goggles, Ear Protection, and Lung Protection should be used when operating tools. Use push sticks when working close to the blade and make sure the tool's safety features are in place. 7) Let the Tool Stop – Giving the power tool time to wind down after a cut is an often-overlooked safety mistake. Even without power, the spinning blade can still do a lot of damage. 8) Fumes and Dust – Solvent fumes and airborne dust can present health and explosion hazards. Care should be taken to ensure a supply of fresh air and use only explosion proof vent fans. 9) Wear Appropriate Clothing – Loose clothing or hair can get caught in power tools and cause severe injury. 10) No Alcohol – Too many woodworkers have been injured because Alcohol clouded their judgment. Avoid their mistakes and wait until after you’re done in the shop. 2
  • 2. DISCLAIMER OF WARRANTY THE MATERIALS CONTAINED ON THE CD ARE PROVIDED "AS IS" WITHOUT WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND EITHER EXPRESS OR IMPLIED. WE ASSUME NO LIABILITY OR RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY ERRORS OR OMISSIONS IN THE CONTENT OF THE CD; ANY FAILURES, DELAYS, OR INTERRUPTIONS IN THE DELIVERY OF ANY CONTENT CONTAINED ON THE CD; ANY LOSSES OR DAMAGES ARISING FROM THE USE OF THE CONTENT PROVIDED ON THE CD; OR ANY CONDUCT BY USERS OF THE CD. TO THE FULLEST EXTENT POSSIBLE PURSUANT TO APPLICABLE LAW, ACTUSLINK DISCLAIMS ALL WARRANTIES, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, ANY IMPLIED WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY, FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE, NON-INFRINGEMENT OR OTHER VIOLATIONS OF RIGHTS. LIMITATION OF LIABILITY UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES, INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, NEGLIGENCE, SHALL ACTUSLINK, ITS OFFICERS, DIRECTORS, OR EMPLOYEES BE LIABLE (JOINTLY OR SEVERALLY) FOR ANY DIRECT, INDIRECT, SPECIAL, INCIDENTAL, OR CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES OF ANY KIND, INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, LOSS OF USE, DATA, OR PROFIT, ON ANY THEORY OF LIABILITY, ARISING OUT OF OR IN CONNECTION WITH THE USE OR THE INABILITY TO USE THE MATERIALS ON THE CD, EVEN IF ACTUSLINK OR A ACTUSLINK' REPRESENTATIVE HAS BEEN ADVISED OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH DAMAGES. SOME STATES DO NOT ALLOW THE EXCLUSION OR LIMITATION OF INCIDENTAL OR CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES SO THE ABOVE LIMITATION OR EXCLUSION MAY NOT APPLY TO YOU. IF ANY APPLICABLE AUTHORITY HOLDS ANY PORTION OF THIS SECTION TO BE UNENFORCEABLE, THEN LIABILITY WILL BE LIMITED TO THE FULLEST EXTENT PERMITTED BY APPLICABLE LAW. 3
  • 3. 1 CANDLEBOX 4
  • 4. MAKING THE CANDLEBOX This simple but attractive candlebox is distinguished by its sliding top. The lid has beveled edges tapering so they can slide in grooves cut into the inside faces of the box's sides and one end. A carved, inset pull adds a decorative touch as well as providing a means for easy sliding of the lid. After the lumber is milled to the required thicknesses, widths and lengths, cut grooves to receive the top and bottom panels. Next, cut the through dovetails at each corner (this procedure is discussed in chapter twenty-five). Bevel the top and bottom panels and assemble the case around the bottom panel, which is left unglued so that it can expand and contract across its width in response to seasonal changes in humidity. Complete construction by fitting plugs into the openings left at each corner at the ends of the grooves. The open top of the candlebox lid reveals the grooves the lid rides in. HAND-PLANING THE BEVELS FOR THE CANDLEBOX LID First, make layout lines to mark the limits of the bevel. Make one line around the edges of the lid %" from the lid's bottom surface. Make a second line on the lid's top 1 'A" from the outside edges. The bevel will connect these two lines. Plane the bevel across the end grain first so that any tearout occur- ring at the end of the plane's stroke will be removed when the adjacent bevel is formed. Although a jack plane can be used to make this bevel, it may be nec- essary to finish with a block plane which, with its lower cut- ting angle, produces a cleaner surface across end grain. SHAPING THE PULL With a marking gauge or a sharp knife, make a line parallel to and 1" from the unbeveled end of the lid. Posi- tion the stationary leg of a compass on that line halfway across the width of the lid. Draw an arc with the compass's pencil point. 2 Placing the tip of a flat chisel in the scored line, cut along that line, an- gling toward the arc. Using a wide-sweep gouge, make cuts from the arc back toward the scored line. Carefully lever up chips. 1 2 1 5
  • 5. SIDE VIEW 1/2 6
  • 6. SHAPING THE PULL (CONTINUED) MATERIALS LIST A Side 2 pcs. 1/2X7X14 B End lpc. 1/2X7X8 1/2 C End lpc. 1/2X6X8 1/2 D Bottom lpc. 1/2X8X131/2 E Top lpc. 1/2X8X13 3/4 F Plug 6 pcs. 1/4 X3/8 X1/4, shaved to fit *These are net measurements, tailed parts to allow them to Surplus should be added to dove- be sanded flush. Once the depression has been formed, you can give the pull a smooth surface, or, as I've done here, you can give it a bit of texture. SAM MALOOF'S TWO-STAGE FINISH Fifteen years ago, Fine Woodworking (issue no. 25) ran a profile of Sam Maloof, the California woodworker best known for his magnificent rocking chairs. Included in the article was a sidebar in which Maloof discussed several technical issues, closing with the recipe for his finishing mix. My dad—who designed and built several of the pieces displayed in this book, including the crotch-grained chess table—began experimenting with MalooFs finish and found it wonderfully adapted to the small shop. After years of spraying lacquer, a toxic experience inevita- bly preceded by the emotionally toxic experience of attempting to vacuum every particle of dust from every shop surface, he found in Maloof's formula a finish that not only produced a very appealing surface but also, just as importantly, was impervious to dust contamination. Preparation is no different for this finish than it would be for any other. Scrape the wood, then sand it with a variety of grits, finishing with a thorough sanding using paper no coarser than 220-grit. Then wipe the wood clean with a tack rag. Maloof's recipe calls for equal parts mineral spirits, boiled linseed oil, and polyurethane varnish (an extra dollop of varnish seems to add body to the dried film). Brush on this mixture liberally with only minimal concern for drips and runs—coverage is the focus at this stage. Allow the finish to set until it gets a bit tacky. Depending on temperature and relative humidity, this could be anywhere from ten to sixty minutes. Wipe the surface with clean rags to remove any excess that has failed to penetrate into the wood. As the finish dries, it lifts wood fibers and hardens them producing a rough texture. (This first coat acts as a sanding sealer.) Again, depending on temperature and relative humidity, this could take anywhere from one to three days. In humid Ohio, I've found it best to wait three days before sanding that first coat. Otherwise, areas of raised, roughened grain may not make their appear- ance until after the last coat has dried. I use 320-grit wet/dry paper soaked in mineral spirits to cut away the raised grain. The thinner clots the re- moved material into a slurry which may help to smooth the surface; however, my reason for dunking the paper in mineral spirits is to unload the grit in order to get more mileage out of each piece of sandpaper. Once you have sanded and thoroughly cleaned the surface with a tack rag, apply a second coat of the three- part mixture. It is particularly important that this coat (and any subsequent coats) be wiped clean. Any residue remaining on the surface will dry there and leave a roughened area. Sam Maloof tops this finish with a layer or two of boiled linseed oil into which he's mixed enough shaved beeswax to achieve the consistency of cream. He applies the wax, allows it to dry, then buffs it out. You can achieve similar effects with a number of commercially prepared waxes. 3 7
  • 7. 2 BENTWOOD BOXES WITH TURNED AND CARVED LIDS Walnut, Curly Maple, Cherry 8
  • 8. MAKING THE BENTWOOD BOXES First, make a bending form for the main body of the box. This can be fabricated from any scrap that can be glued together to make up a sufficient thickness. This is then band sawn and sanded to the inside profile of the finished box. Undercut the face of the bending form at one point to allow for the thickness of the lapped material underneath the box's glue joint. Screw a thin strip of metal (I used a scrap of aluminum siding) to the form underneath which an end of the sidewall material should be inserted prior to being wrapped around the form. At this time, saw a clamping caul (see photos, below) with a slightly greater radius than the bending form from scrap material. This caul will protect the sidewall material from the clamps. The next consideration is the sidewall material itself. There are three possibilities. First, the stock can be resawn, planed and sanded to a thickness of 1/16". Second, Constant-e's Hardware sells 1/16" veneer in cherry, walnut and mahogany, even though those thicknesses aren't listed in their most recent catalogs. Third, the sidewall material can be glued-up from two thicknesses of 1/32" veneer, which is widely available in a variety of species. I would recommend using one of the new waterproof glues between the lamina- tions, although I have built boxes using regular aliphatic resin glue to bond the thicknesses of veneer. Then, soak the sidewall stock in a tub of cool water for twenty-four hours; dunk it briefly in warm water and take it directly to the bending form. Tuck one end of this softened, plasticized material under the metal strip on the bending form. Wrap the remaining length around the form and secure in place with clamps and the caul. Four or five days later, remove the sidewall material from the form and cut the profile of the lap joint. A bench extension to which is nailed a piece of scrap sawn to the inside radius of the box simplifies the cutting of the joint. Then, glue the lap, wrap the sidewall material around the form once again and clamp with the aid of the caul. This time, however, do not insert the end of the sidewall material under the form's metal strip. After being turned, attached the box's bottom to the sidewalls with four 1/8" wooden pegs driven into predrilled holes. 1 This is the bench extension used to maintain the curved form of the sidewall material during the cutting of the lap. The clamping caul is visible on the right. A lap joint is be- ing cut on the bench extension. Here, the glued lap joint is being clamped with the aid of the caul. Notice that the end of the sidewall material is not positioned under the metal strip as it was during its initial clamping for shape. CUTTING THE LAP JOINTS 2 3 9
  • 9. Screw a faceplate to a band-sawn turning blank with large y sheet metal screws. Then, install it on the lathe. DECORATING THE SURFACES This is the same blank after being turned. Above the bead, notice the flange that will fit inside the box's sidewalls. Before removing the parts from the lathe, sketch pencil lines on the lid approximating the shapes to be created. Then with gouges of various sweeps, define those lines (shown above). Remove material below the line (as shown above), and create the stippled texture by repeatedly tapping a nail set into the surface of the wood. MATERIALS LIST A Form 1 pc. 3X3/2 B Caul 1 pc. 1/2X3 1/2X3 1/2 C Sidewall 1 pc. 1/16X 3 1/2X15 D Lid 1 pc. variable E Bottom 1 pc. variable F Pegs 4 pc. 1/8 X 1/8 X 1/2 TURNING THE LID AND THE BOTTOM 1 1 2 10
  • 10. 3 CROTCH-GRAINED CHESS TABLE Walnut, Poplar 11
  • 11. MAKING THE CHESS TABLE This piece is designed around a set of angles taken from the playing pieces, angles echoed in the fat dovetails holding the stretchers to the legs and to each other, in the big triangles cut from the apron parts, and in the compound angles used to bring the legs into the tabletop. The repeti- tion of these angles—in addition to the consistent color of the walnut—unifies this piece. Construction begins with the two sides (the faces of the table showing the wide sides of the legs). Fasten the apron parts to the legs with wide tenons glued only halfway across their widths in order to minimize the potential for cracking as these cross-grained constructions expand and contract in response to seasonal changes in humidity. The creation of these joints is complicated by the com- pound angles at which the legs meet the tabletop. The tenon shoulders on the apron parts, for example, are cut at angles which are 83° from the top edges of these apron parts. The dovetailed ends of the stretcher are simpler to lay out, as these can be marked once the apron tenons have been dry-fit into their leg mortises. Once dry-fit, glue and clamp these sub-assemblies— each of which consists of two legs, apron part, and stretcher. On the table saw, give the center stretcher a dovetailed bottom that extends from end to end. Then fit this into dovetail mortises cut into the side stretchers. Surplus length is necessary on this stretcher so that the end grain can be pared back to the 83° angle at which the sides are canted. Then fasten the apron part opposite the drawer front to the legs on the back end of the table with a pair of 1/2"-long tenons. Again, in order to avoid cracking as a result of this cross-grained construction, glue the tenon only across half its width. Screw glue blocks into place behind this joint to reinforce these stubby tenons. Resaw the drawer guide stock so that one face is canted at an 83° angle. Then, using a set of dado cutters on the table saw, plough a 1/2" X 5/8" groove down the center of the uncanted face of this stock. Cut the two drawer-guide pieces to length and install them on the inside faces of the apron sides. The top is the next concern. If woodworkers stay in the discipline long enough, they inevitably become wood collectors. My dad is no exception. Over the years he's put together a hoard of native hard- woods with an emphasis on black walnut, his personal favorite among American species. At the time this table was built, he had in his collection a number of short lengths of crotch-grained walnut he'd harvested several years before, and he selected four of these for the top of this table because the swirling grain in the walnut echoed the swirling figure in the onyx frame of the chessboard. Once you have chosen the stock for the chessboard frame, give it a shaped outside edge, and rabbet the bottom inside edge to receive the base on which the chessboard will set. Cut the slots for the splines. You can cut these by hand with a tenon saw, but I find it much easier to perform this operation on the table saw with a Universal Jig. (See 12
  • 12. 13
  • 13. 14
  • 14. chapter six for a photo of this jig in operation. Please note, however, that in order to cut the slots for the splines on the frame of the chess table, the work would be aligned so that the mitered end of the frame stock sets flat on the saw table). Thickness and cut splines, and assemble the frame. Next, install the 1/4" chessboard base in its 1/4" X 1/2" rabbet with a number of small wood screws. The moulding under the tabletop is not merely decora- tive—it's also functional, serving to fasten the top to the base via a number of wood screws passing up through the moulding into the top and passing through the apron into the moulding. The drawer is a simple open-topped, butt-jointed box, to the front end of which a section of the apron and the moulding are affixed so that when the drawer is closed, both the apron and the moulding appear to run continu- ously around the table. Place a wedge of wood the full length of the drawer front, tapered from a bottom thickness of 5 /16" to a top thickness of 0 between the drawer front and the apron that covers the drawer front. This shim causes the apron to be canted at the same 83° angle as the other sections of the apron. Slide the runners screwed to the outside faces of the drawer sides into the grooves ploughed in the drawer guides. Construct a drawer stop by screwing a strip of wood across the bottom of the drawer guides. When the drawer is opened to its greatest extension, a pair of screws turned slightly into the bottom edge of the drawer sides strike this strip, preventing the drawer from coming out too far and spilling its contents. After finishing the table, set the chessboard into place on a felt pad. 3 Fasten the drawer runner, which slides in the groove ploughed in the drawer guides, to the drawer via several wood screws passing through the drawer side into the slide. Note the shim between the drawer front and the apron. This causes the apron to be canted at the same angle as the table's legs. Note also the spline set into the end grain of the apron. This prevents the corners of the apron from breaking off because of the grain runout on the apron's triangular tips. Screws passing up through this moulding into the top and passing through the apron into the moulding hold the top to the base. The drawer can be seen sliding in the groove ploughed in the drawer guide. When the screw turned into the bottom of the drawer side strikes the stop strip, the drawer is prevented from being pulled completely from the table. 1 Fasten the stretcher to the leg with a hand-cut dovetail 2 4 15
  • 15. 4 FOUR-BOARD BENCH Hickory 16
  • 16. 17
  • 17. MAKING THE FOUR-BOARD BENCH After the material has been dimensioned, profile the rounded ends of the top, the half round ends on the stretcher, and the circle cutouts on the legs. This can be done on the band saw, but because of the length of the top, it is probably easier to cut this, at least, with a handheld jigsaw. Next, using a cutoff box on the table saw (or crowded against the fence of the radial arm saw), form the dadoes on the underside of the top. Cut the through mortises cut using the method described in chapter twelve. Then, on the band saw, cut the through tenons at the tops of the legs. Because of the 1/4"-deep dado, these need only be 9/16" long (1/2" for the tenon and 1/16" to be sanded flush). Then, fit them into their mortises. Next, cut the edge cross lap joints that will fasten the stretcher to the legs. Two notches are required at each leg. Cut one, 2 1/4" deep, in the leg panel midway between the through tenons. Cut the other, 1" deep, into the bottom edge of the stretcher. The
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